When it comes to launching a luxury hotel brand, Frédéric Biousse could offer a master class. After a long career building ‘affordable luxury’ fashion brands, he’s just managed to ink a deal with the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, LVMH, for his small hotel startup, Fontenille Collection.
The company, which Biousse co-founded in 2016 together with art gallery owner Guillaume Foucher, is now able to acquire new properties. Since the deal went through in December, they have grown the portfolio from 11 to 15 hotels, located throughout France, Italy and Spain. And their spending spree continues under the direction of a new CEO, Linda Hazi, formerly the commercial director of beauty retail giant Sephora.
Though the financial terms were not disclosed, LVMH's stake in this small company suggests an interest in expanding its travel offerings into more affordable markets, compared to their ultra-luxe brands like Belmond, Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, and Cheval Blanc. Jean-Jacques Guiony, then CFO of LVMH, called it “an opportunity to discover a complementary universe.” (He has since taken the position of Chief Executive Officer of Moët Hennessy, the wines and spirits division of LVMH).
What does it take to get LVMH to invest?
It would be easy to say this is simply a love letter to French savoir faire. But if you look under the hood, it’s much more tactical. Frédéric Biousse is the former fashion executive of SMCP Group who made multi-million dollar deals long before buying a French vineyard that eventually became Fontenille. These days, high-end retail and luxury hotels are looking more and more similar. And as Biousse himself will tell you, it’s the years in retail that made the difference.
“When I acquired Sandro in 2007, there were just 21 people in the company and we had two stores. So we grew it. We opened in 34 countries, and we grew from $2 million to $1 billion in nine years. In 2010, I sold a 51% stake in SMCP to LVMH, and then in 2013, the [American private equity firm] KKR took a majority stake,” recalls Bouisse. The Chinese company Shandong Ruyi acquired the group from KKR in 2016.
“What happened during those years is that you had luxury brands, and you had mass market brands. No one can be better than Zara or H&M, at mass market; it's such a difficult job. In luxury, no one can be better than Hermès, LVMH, or Richemont. So in between, we decided to go into this new affordable luxury market, which would bring the best out of luxury with a business model based on mass market operations. We are the first ones to do that in the world.”
At Fontenille’s hotels, the word luxury is meant to convey a certain lifestyle: that ineffable “quiet luxury” that the French do so well. And it seems, for now at least, they will forge ahead despite a possible U.S. recession forecast by a growing number of prominent economists. One wonders if the American consumer, long considered the sugar daddy of the luxury travel industry in Europe, will maintain this status in the years ahead?